Well, it is going somewhere, I feel. Albeit I do have trouble with colors. I mean the colors often don't turn out as the advertised colors. Plus that the sensor channels get far too easy over saturated - which means you get a color area in which no more details are visible.

So, I started to use "white" light (which in reality due to the nature of RGB light, is rather coolish bluish. But it is better manageable overall, when you decide the final color balance. Usually you make it a bit warmer than it appears, then the too cold blue tone will get less blue.

When I use stronger colors, the whole creation looks like some Pop-culture chock from the 70s or early 80s. Totally over the top, and no fine nuances left what so ever. Just kitschy, like Andy Warhol type of designs.

Which it is or gets far too easily exhausting. Overpowering everything in the photo, including the shapes of the glass. So no, thanks.

While it is super fun to paint with light

- but the colors from a RGB LED torch are very tricky to work with. Plus that the Critter torch is extremely bright, too easily overpowering the exposure. As I said, i painted with only 1% of the light strength.

[Note: This applies when when in Olympus Live Comp mode - which apparently makes the highlight come out much stronger, compared to normal longtime exposure in a dark environment. I still have not figured out the balance between the light strength of the Critter LED, and the exposure mode in the camera. Live Comp works different compared to normal, traditional longtime exposure, such as "B"] I still have to figure out the differences and kinks.

Naturally, if you light paint something bigger outdoors, the brighter settings most likely will be a welcome addition. Or if you adapt a "light painting sword" - then you need stronger light levels .

But in a low-lit the kitchen or studio, you wanna use less strong light. Then again, I have to experiment with the settings in the Olympus... as they are still confusing me.